adjust far electrical box plaster ears The little ears on outlets and light switches are used in conjunction with “new work” electrical boxes — “new” referring to new construction, where the box is affixed to the studs in new, bare framing before drywall has been installed. Therefore, we use metallic junction boxes in areas with a high risk of environmental and electrical damage. You may also use metal for an outdoor junction box. They are not affordable, like plastic junction boxes; however, .
0 · electrical
1 · Why Outlets and Light Switches Have Little Ears
2 · Receptacles: Mounting ears for what purpose?
3 · Metal rework box
4 · How to Install an Old Work (Retrofit) Electrical Box
5 · How to Install a Cut
6 · Homeowner Question: Putting old work boxes in plaster/lath walls
7 · Device plaster ears
8 · Best remodel box for plaster wall?
9 · Any tricks for Old Work Box opening that's too large?
The junction box has broken at the two screw mounts and the ceiling around it is fully drywalled. This is in a basement so there is no access to the junction box from above. How do I remove the junction box and replace it without a major repair to the drywall around it?Strong, fireproof, and incapable of melting, metal boxes offer the greatest level of security for all electrical wiring applications. Compared to plastic boxes, metal electrical boxes are very strong: It is virtually impossible to bend, warp, twist, or crush metal electrical or junction .
The plaster ears are there for plaster or sheetrock. It keeps the device up against the wall rather than having no support when the box is set back a 1/4" or so. The tabs get broken off when you install the receptacle in a 4" sq. cover. Use steel boxes with plaster ears and use #4 wood screws into the lathe. Done it hundreds if not thousands of times. Use a metal rework box with plaster ears that are depth-adjustable so you can screw the plaster ears directly to the plywood also, leaving the front of the box out at the drywall surface where it should be. They are called "plaster ears", and they are there so that the device can be held firmly and flatly against the wall surface when you draw down the 6-32 screw holding it to the box.
electrical
Why Outlets and Light Switches Have Little Ears
The little ears on outlets and light switches are used in conjunction with “new work” electrical boxes — “new” referring to new construction, where the box is affixed to the studs in new, bare framing before drywall has been installed. My first "secret" is to adjust the box ears so the back surface of the ears is on the same plane as the front edge of the box, so the box will not protrude from the wall at all.
If the box is set back into the wall, snap off the ears at the score marks and put them on the screws. Use one, two or more as necessary to get the device tight to the box and .
An old work (retrofit) electrical box is a type of electrical box for outlets, light switches, and other devices that is installed after drywall has already been put in place. This allows you to retrofit an existing wall or ceiling without .
When installing a plastic electrical cut-in box, you will need to cut a hole in the drywall, slip the box into place, and turn a couple of screws to pull the ears or wings tight to the . If possible, you can just cut the new box in immediately to one side of a stud and use an internal side screw old work box ("smart boxes"). You may need a box extension if it . The plaster ears are there for plaster or sheetrock. It keeps the device up against the wall rather than having no support when the box is set back a 1/4" or so. The tabs get broken off when you install the receptacle in a 4" sq. cover.
If it's wood lath, you screw the metal boxes w/ears to the lath with #5 or #4 wood screws. Don't use anything bigger, the wood will just split. If it's into a cabinet, you screw them to the cabinet.
Use steel boxes with plaster ears and use #4 wood screws into the lathe. Done it hundreds if not thousands of times. Use a metal rework box with plaster ears that are depth-adjustable so you can screw the plaster ears directly to the plywood also, leaving the front of the box out at the drywall surface where it should be. They are called "plaster ears", and they are there so that the device can be held firmly and flatly against the wall surface when you draw down the 6-32 screw holding it to the box. The little ears on outlets and light switches are used in conjunction with “new work” electrical boxes — “new” referring to new construction, where the box is affixed to the studs in new, bare framing before drywall has been installed.
My first "secret" is to adjust the box ears so the back surface of the ears is on the same plane as the front edge of the box, so the box will not protrude from the wall at all. If the box is set back into the wall, snap off the ears at the score marks and put them on the screws. Use one, two or more as necessary to get the device tight to the box and at the correct position relative to the finished wall. An old work (retrofit) electrical box is a type of electrical box for outlets, light switches, and other devices that is installed after drywall has already been put in place. This allows you to retrofit an existing wall or ceiling without going through the hassle of removing drywall and plaster.
Receptacles: Mounting ears for what purpose?
In terms of trimming the protruding sides of the box, I'm thinking dremel + cutting wheel, unless you have better ideas. Multitool works good for this. That box is adjustable front to back. Unless you have it jammed in behind, you should be able to turn the screw on the side and move it in and out. Larry..
The plaster ears are there for plaster or sheetrock. It keeps the device up against the wall rather than having no support when the box is set back a 1/4" or so. The tabs get broken off when you install the receptacle in a 4" sq. cover. If it's wood lath, you screw the metal boxes w/ears to the lath with #5 or #4 wood screws. Don't use anything bigger, the wood will just split. If it's into a cabinet, you screw them to the cabinet.
Use steel boxes with plaster ears and use #4 wood screws into the lathe. Done it hundreds if not thousands of times.
Use a metal rework box with plaster ears that are depth-adjustable so you can screw the plaster ears directly to the plywood also, leaving the front of the box out at the drywall surface where it should be. They are called "plaster ears", and they are there so that the device can be held firmly and flatly against the wall surface when you draw down the 6-32 screw holding it to the box. The little ears on outlets and light switches are used in conjunction with “new work” electrical boxes — “new” referring to new construction, where the box is affixed to the studs in new, bare framing before drywall has been installed. My first "secret" is to adjust the box ears so the back surface of the ears is on the same plane as the front edge of the box, so the box will not protrude from the wall at all.
If the box is set back into the wall, snap off the ears at the score marks and put them on the screws. Use one, two or more as necessary to get the device tight to the box and at the correct position relative to the finished wall. An old work (retrofit) electrical box is a type of electrical box for outlets, light switches, and other devices that is installed after drywall has already been put in place. This allows you to retrofit an existing wall or ceiling without going through the hassle of removing drywall and plaster.
Yes it technically does but NEC will tell you no. Get a green ground screw 10/32 thread and wrap a ground wire around it then fasten to box, theres already a .
adjust far electrical box plaster ears|Why Outlets and Light Switches Have Little Ears