electric collector enclosure won't spin When the wheel does spin, it only does it for a couple of seconds, unless I reapply the throttle and get a couple of more seconds each time. The phase wires out of controller give . The G3015-J sheet metal fiber laser cutting machine offers cutting-edge features, including an automatic dual-pallets changer, an extruded aviation aluminum gantry beam, and a maximum speed of 100m/min.
0 · electric motor hums doesn't start spinning.
1 · Troubleshooting Guide for Five Common Dust Collector Problems
2 · Studer A80 supply motor won't spin
3 · Motor doesn't spin freely
4 · Looking for help with a small electric motor that vibrates
5 · Electric motor will not start, but runs if started by hand
6 · Electric motor humming and won't spin
7 · Dust collector stopped working yesterday
8 · Dust Collector Motor Won't Start
9 · Diagnosing a no spin issue
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What sometimes happens is that dirt/sawdust prevents the switch from closing as the motor slows to a stop. When the motor is started again the capacitor is not in the circuit because the switch hasn't closed, so the motor fails to start and you get the hum that you are . Yes, a bad capacitor is #1, but other things can also cause the problem. The motor has some sort of a starting switch, either mechanical or electronic. If it is mechanical, make . When the wheel does spin, it only does it for a couple of seconds, unless I reapply the throttle and get a couple of more seconds each time. The phase wires out of controller give .If I give the rotor a little spin it seems to run just fine, even with a load. The capacitor appears to be working properly; it charges when the power cord is plugged in and discharges when the .
In the first case, if you manually start spinning it, it should start rotating (not as fast as with a working cap). In the second case you'll notice that the rotor is stuck or difficult to move. Try .
Quit trying to start it w/o the capacitor or you may burn up the motor. There is a centrifugal switch on the fan end of the motor (inside) that could also have failed. But the .If your industrial dust collector is not pulsing when started up, this means it was not properly wired in the field. Since our industrial dust collection systems do not come pre-wired, we always .
When I press the throttle, the motor moves just a little bit, but it seems like it's trying really hard not to move. I unplugged my controller from the motor, and I noticed when I . Loosen the end bells and try to realign them. If the shaft is free a turns, plug in the motor and see if the shaft is still free to turn. Try to turn it with a gloved hand. If the motor .
electric motor hums doesn't start spinning.
Since the collector of the power transistor stays high, it's obviously not receiving any base drive current. The problem is probably in the control logic driving the power . What sometimes happens is that dirt/sawdust prevents the switch from closing as the motor slows to a stop. When the motor is started again the capacitor is not in the circuit because the switch hasn't closed, so the motor fails to start and you get the hum that you are experiencing. Yes, a bad capacitor is #1, but other things can also cause the problem. The motor has some sort of a starting switch, either mechanical or electronic. If it is mechanical, make sure it is making contact when the motor is stopped. If it is not making contact, the start winding will not be active and the motor will not start.
When the wheel does spin, it only does it for a couple of seconds, unless I reapply the throttle and get a couple of more seconds each time. The phase wires out of controller give a weird reading, as high as 100 volts before dropping to 0 within a couple of seconds.
If I give the rotor a little spin it seems to run just fine, even with a load. The capacitor appears to be working properly; it charges when the power cord is plugged in and discharges when the power is cut.
In the first case, if you manually start spinning it, it should start rotating (not as fast as with a working cap). In the second case you'll notice that the rotor is stuck or difficult to move. Try lubricating it. Quit trying to start it w/o the capacitor or you may burn up the motor. There is a centrifugal switch on the fan end of the motor (inside) that could also have failed. But the capacitor is more likely. Electrolytic Chinese capacitors are prone to failure. Easy fix.If your industrial dust collector is not pulsing when started up, this means it was not properly wired in the field. Since our industrial dust collection systems do not come pre-wired, we always recommend contacting a certified electrician to properly wire your system. When I press the throttle, the motor moves just a little bit, but it seems like it's trying really hard not to move. I unplugged my controller from the motor, and I noticed when I try to spin the wheel, there is a lot of resistance and the wheel doesn't spin freely like it used to.
Loosen the end bells and try to realign them. If the shaft is free a turns, plug in the motor and see if the shaft is still free to turn. Try to turn it with a gloved hand. If the motor appears to be locked up when it is plugged in, the start winding is not engaging. Since the collector of the power transistor stays high, it's obviously not receiving any base drive current. The problem is probably in the control logic driving the power transistors rather then the high-power motor circuits. I could only find . What sometimes happens is that dirt/sawdust prevents the switch from closing as the motor slows to a stop. When the motor is started again the capacitor is not in the circuit because the switch hasn't closed, so the motor fails to start and you get the hum that you are experiencing. Yes, a bad capacitor is #1, but other things can also cause the problem. The motor has some sort of a starting switch, either mechanical or electronic. If it is mechanical, make sure it is making contact when the motor is stopped. If it is not making contact, the start winding will not be active and the motor will not start.
When the wheel does spin, it only does it for a couple of seconds, unless I reapply the throttle and get a couple of more seconds each time. The phase wires out of controller give a weird reading, as high as 100 volts before dropping to 0 within a couple of seconds. If I give the rotor a little spin it seems to run just fine, even with a load. The capacitor appears to be working properly; it charges when the power cord is plugged in and discharges when the power is cut. In the first case, if you manually start spinning it, it should start rotating (not as fast as with a working cap). In the second case you'll notice that the rotor is stuck or difficult to move. Try lubricating it. Quit trying to start it w/o the capacitor or you may burn up the motor. There is a centrifugal switch on the fan end of the motor (inside) that could also have failed. But the capacitor is more likely. Electrolytic Chinese capacitors are prone to failure. Easy fix.
If your industrial dust collector is not pulsing when started up, this means it was not properly wired in the field. Since our industrial dust collection systems do not come pre-wired, we always recommend contacting a certified electrician to properly wire your system.
When I press the throttle, the motor moves just a little bit, but it seems like it's trying really hard not to move. I unplugged my controller from the motor, and I noticed when I try to spin the wheel, there is a lot of resistance and the wheel doesn't spin freely like it used to.
Loosen the end bells and try to realign them. If the shaft is free a turns, plug in the motor and see if the shaft is still free to turn. Try to turn it with a gloved hand. If the motor appears to be locked up when it is plugged in, the start winding is not engaging.
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electric collector enclosure won't spin|Motor doesn't spin freely